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AHHHHH!!!! HELP
ok i put some 10 gauge strings on my guitar its a warlock platinum and the bridge popped up really high so i took the 10 gauge off and put nines on and the bridge was fine but the guy said i should tighten my springs and so when i put the nines on there i tightened them for saftey and my playability on the guitar went down so i screwed with the bridge alittle and my playability is still screwed, now when i try to tune the thing if i turn the tuning key of the one that needs adjusting the one im tuning to goes out of tune PLEASE HELP ME!!!! how do i get my playability back?
# 1
You have a floating trem, right?
Changing string gauge is rather tricky with a floating trem. Your best bet at this stage may be to take the guitar to a tech and ask him to set it up on whatever guage of strings you want and show you how to change strings and retune at the same time.
Changing string gauge is rather tricky with a floating trem. Your best bet at this stage may be to take the guitar to a tech and ask him to set it up on whatever guage of strings you want and show you how to change strings and retune at the same time.
# 2
These replies were originally posted by me @ http://www.daddydoodle.com
They are totally relevant to this thread
1) Tuning the beast
The FRs are a floating trem system i.e. the bridge is kept in place by tension on the strings acting antagonistically against the tension generated by the springs attached to your bridge in the back of the guitar. So, when you change the tension on the bridge by alerting the tuning of one string the tuning of all the other strings changes also.
The way round this problem is to undo your locking nut and adjust all of your bridge fine tuners to about the half-way position. Then tune your bottom e string to pitch. Work up to the top e string and then go back to the bottom e and again tune to pitch. After you have repeated this exercise several times you will notice that the amount of tightening required to tune your e string to pitch is decreasing every time you go back to it. Keep at it and eventually you will get to a point where after you have tuned your top e, your bottom e will still be in tune. Do up the locking nut and use the fine tunes to tune to pitch. I normally do some serious bending and diving just to stretch in the strings, retune to pitch as call that done !
A helpful thing is also to make a bridge jack. I have one that is made from a dead 9V stomp box battery wrapped in electricians tape. When ever I want to change my strings and give my neck a good oiling I jam the battery under the bridge to stop it disappearing into the body as the tension from the strings disappears.
2) Bridge riding out of cavity
The fix for the bridge riding out of its mounting cavity (raising the action) is a simple but time consuming one.
Undo the panel on the back of your guitar and tighten (to drop your action) the screws on the mounting plate attaching the springs to the body of your guitar. You will then have to tune to pitch as described in the previous message before you see what difference you have made to the final position of the bridge. Then... either tighten the spring mount further to lower the action and bridge or loosen the mounting to rise the bridge, tuning to pitch to check your progress. This will take a couple of hours to finally get right but once it is done, as long as you don’t change the gauge of your strings again, you are set !
Hope this helps
They are totally relevant to this thread
1) Tuning the beast
The FRs are a floating trem system i.e. the bridge is kept in place by tension on the strings acting antagonistically against the tension generated by the springs attached to your bridge in the back of the guitar. So, when you change the tension on the bridge by alerting the tuning of one string the tuning of all the other strings changes also.
The way round this problem is to undo your locking nut and adjust all of your bridge fine tuners to about the half-way position. Then tune your bottom e string to pitch. Work up to the top e string and then go back to the bottom e and again tune to pitch. After you have repeated this exercise several times you will notice that the amount of tightening required to tune your e string to pitch is decreasing every time you go back to it. Keep at it and eventually you will get to a point where after you have tuned your top e, your bottom e will still be in tune. Do up the locking nut and use the fine tunes to tune to pitch. I normally do some serious bending and diving just to stretch in the strings, retune to pitch as call that done !
A helpful thing is also to make a bridge jack. I have one that is made from a dead 9V stomp box battery wrapped in electricians tape. When ever I want to change my strings and give my neck a good oiling I jam the battery under the bridge to stop it disappearing into the body as the tension from the strings disappears.
2) Bridge riding out of cavity
The fix for the bridge riding out of its mounting cavity (raising the action) is a simple but time consuming one.
Undo the panel on the back of your guitar and tighten (to drop your action) the screws on the mounting plate attaching the springs to the body of your guitar. You will then have to tune to pitch as described in the previous message before you see what difference you have made to the final position of the bridge. Then... either tighten the spring mount further to lower the action and bridge or loosen the mounting to rise the bridge, tuning to pitch to check your progress. This will take a couple of hours to finally get right but once it is done, as long as you don’t change the gauge of your strings again, you are set !
Hope this helps
My instructors page and www.studiotrax.net for all things recording.
my toons Brought to you by Dr BadGAS
my toons Brought to you by Dr BadGAS
# 3
I had exactly the same problem when i changed the .009s to .010s , and actualy i had to stick with the .009s till i found the solution which was simply adding another spring..
from my expirience with Floyd Rose bridges I've noticed that for .009s you need 3 springs and for the .010s you'll need 4 springs, and 5 springs for the .011s (i haven't tried the .011s, just guessing!)
also fine adjustment will be needed as the guage of the low E strings change (.046 , .048 , .052) or changing your tuning (standard , Half-Step down, etc)
All you'll have to do is tightning screws that hold the springs or making them a little looser to have the bridge at it's perfect position , which is making it just floating on the surface and parallel to your guitar body..
from my expirience with Floyd Rose bridges I've noticed that for .009s you need 3 springs and for the .010s you'll need 4 springs, and 5 springs for the .011s (i haven't tried the .011s, just guessing!)
also fine adjustment will be needed as the guage of the low E strings change (.046 , .048 , .052) or changing your tuning (standard , Half-Step down, etc)
All you'll have to do is tightning screws that hold the springs or making them a little looser to have the bridge at it's perfect position , which is making it just floating on the surface and parallel to your guitar body..
# 4
